Edinburgh days

Wanting to go home! Edinburgh is cold, grey, and rainy. We were surprised by how touristy that the royal mile has become. The sidewalks are very crowded, as in rubbing shoulders with total strangers. We queued to see Edinburgh castle but the line was so long that we bailed. Even then, we queued to leave. There were mimes everywhere, and bagpipes by the dozens. We ducked into the Gladstone museum, previously a tenantry, or boarding house. The house was 6 stories, a skyscraper in the 1500's.
Each room had a tour guide. One young fellow was from Halifax, and has just finished a Masters in International Studies from U of Edinburgh, and is loving it.  Ravenous, we then headed to the Wedgwood restaurant on the Royal Mile. Trip Advisor and our hotel has recommended this place. We were not disappointed! My appetizer was a leek panecotta with a goat cheese mousse and  parmesan crisps, followed by a main course of sea bass and potato puree. The place was empty and we took our slow time. Eventually, we had to leave and had to brave the pissing cold rain. Returning to our apartment, we watched !!!!!! Top Gear.

Heading to London tomorrow and St. John's on Friday

King Arthur's seat

King Arthur's seat is an old volcanic hill in  Holyrood Park at the end of the Royal Mile in old Edinburgh. The Royal Mile is bookmarked by  Edinburgh Castle at one end and Holyrood castle at the other. Holyrood Castle is the Queen's official residence when she visits Scotland. Full of 'piss and vinegar, Peter and I decided to hike to the top of Arthur's seat, with a summit of 251 meters.
The wind was howling and the temperature was 10 degrees. The walk became a climb, and, with the wind, a tougher go than we had thought...but, we did it. Back up the royal mile for a pint and a pub lunch made it all worth while.

Gates to Holyrood Palace, Queen's residence

Fixer-upper...chapel of St. Anthony, curer of skin diseases

Holyrood Palace next to the green

Yellow flowers that were everywhere

Windswept Peter walking up to the summit

Windswept Peter at the summit overlooking Edinburgh

Pub at end of royal mile; people actually believed that the world ended beyond this point.

Pub lunch, bangers and mash

More pictures of Edinburgh

Plan to eat here soon

Where we ate spaghetti and Cod on George Street

The Cobblestone Street that houses the Edinburgh Castle

A happy Bagpiper

The Royal Mile

Edinburgh 2013

Last night, we watched the David Bowie film, "The Man who Fell from the Sky", totally weird but compelling. Anyway, we got to bed after 1 am and today slept in. We headed out for a quick jog after breakfast, ran along the gardens lining Princess Street, and then down Regent Street. People were out everywhere, bagpipes playing, and the sun was shining. After lunch, we walked again along Princess Street and then to the Royal Mile. There were many tartan and cashmere shops, mixed with pubs.
Supper was at Gusto's, an Italian place on George Street. Peter had spaghetti and I had cod.Delicious!

King James Cathedral on Royal Mile 

Had tea at this cafe built in the 1400's

Arran to Edinburgh

Leaving Arran was tough. We took a last walk down the Glenn, saying adios to the sheep, horses, and even grouse. Campbell gave us a ride to the ferry, and we sailed to the port of Ardrossan. The transportation system is so efficient here. We landed in Ardrossan, where a train was waiting to take us to Glasgow. Glasgow was hopping, with musicians and actors. We quickly transferred to the Edinburgh train, and arrived in Edinburgh around 4 pm.

Come back, now ye hear!

Peter sitting on ferry with Goatfell in background

Last look at Goatfell

Edinburgh

Last day on Arran

Time flies when you are having fun. Today, we set out for Broddick castle, a 2 mile trot from our cottage. The sun was shining and we arrived at the castle in time for lunch. The castle is magnificent, owned by the Hamiltons, and supported by the tenancy of Arran. Seems that the aristocrats owned lands in Britain, and regular people were considered tenants.  A very friendly Arran native informed us that the glenns were occupied by hundreds of people. The duke decided that he wanted the land for sheep, so he had all of the inhabitants shipped to Canada !The castle spoke of excess, with silver and gold in abundance. The kitchen housed servants, as young as 8 years, who lugged jugs of water up 2 flights of stairs for the ladies bath.

The grounds of the castle were absolutely beautiful, with rhododendrums everywhere in magnificent colours.

Broddick castle

Restaurant where we ate lunch

Bavarian Roof of a gazebo done with pinecones!

Rhododendrum in the garden

Daisies in the garden

Glen Rosa Brodick Isle of Arran, Scotland May 2013

Just outside our cottage

What are you staring at?

I am so pretty!

We are into quakery

Doo-doo-do-doo

island life

Island life is very peaceful and totally uneventful, which is perfect after the celebrations of Provence. I feel that my liver is back to normal. The bells in Provence would now joyfully ring, not clang. Both of us had sore leg and back muscles from climbing Goatfell, so we thought  a gentle walk down Glen Rosa, would be a perfect activity for a Wednesday. However, once we got limbered up, we continued down the Glen and half ways up the mountain again! Luckily, we turned back to almost miss the rain and hail. The wildlife is spectacular and literally right on our doorstep.

walking up the glenn

a curious deer

Goatfell in the distance

Cir Mhor across from Goatfell

Bridge over amazing river not captured with a camera!

Slab of rock covered with a stream

Goatfell 2013

Alarm at 8:30 am, and a hearty breakfast ensures that we are ready for a good climb.We are climbing Goatfell today, the highest peak on Arran, at 2866 feet.  Sunny skies, temperature of 10 degrees, and windy conditions greet us. I had climbed Goatfell in 1982 with $5.00 sneakers, no food, but lots of enthusiasm! Peter and I pack tea, sandwiches, wear hiking boots and proper clothing. The climb is still a challenge!

Looking back at Brodick from Goatfell

Starting our climb

the peak of Goatfell

Peter at the summit

Eating lunch at the summit

Brodick

The isle of Arran has an area of 500 sq miles and population of 5000 people. Our stay in Arran is quite the contrast to our week in Provence. We are staying in this wee cottage called Reaper Weary, on the trail to Glen Rosa. Tuesday, we walked into Brodick, the village, had a lovely lunch at the pub. I learned that Lochranza whiskey is desirable, while The Famous Grouse whiskey is like cheap wine!

Brodick, the major center of Arran

Fireplace in the pub

 

 We then walked along the beach and the main drag. Life is slow and very peaceful here.

Monday, May 20; leaving Provence

Monday, we packed up and drove back to the Marseilles airport, We flew to Heathrow and then to Glasgow, Scotland. We then took the ferry to the Isle of Arran. We were picked up by Campbell, who owned the cottage that we were renting. I was here 30 years ago. Arran is a small island, with a small population, and is very peaceful. Peter and I walked along the Glen Rosa trail at sunset.

Goatfell mountain peak at sunset

Glen Rosa trail

on the ferry to Arran

Sunday, at Provence, continued

Well, there was much disappointment, even anger from some of the cyclists, because they could not finish the Ventoux climb. Fortunately, beer was on tap and rose wine was flowing, so merriment ensued. Sylvie, an amazing person and constant organizer, informed me that the cappucinos (slooooooow) bike riders had to dance for "Victoria Day", written by Whitehorse. Sylvie had choreographed and then we rehearsed.

The grand finale for the week commenced at 6 pm. We mingled, said good-byes to new friends,and had a fabulous dinner. Ed Robertson, and Whitehorse entertained us with amazing music. Ed Robertson has a fabulous voice, and writes most, if not all, the Barenaked Ladies music. He also is a great guy, full of stories, and very humble. Luke and Melissa are fantastic. Melissa has this sultry crooning voice. Luke is an outstanding guitarist. After 4 songs, Melissa invites the cappucinos to accompany her.
I figure, what the hell! So, Dorothy, Theresa, Sylvie, Bev, and myself did our moves to Victoria Day. Peter asked me if I ever thought that I would back up Whitehorse and Barenaked Ladies. What a blast!

the Ventoux Climb

The mountain is 22 kms to the top. The lower third have a 6%grade. The middle third have a 10% grade for 10 kms, and the top grade is 6% again. Peter looked really good. Curt, and us revellers were clanging pots and I was yelling Woohoo, something that my boys would be familiar with. Bike riders were really in the zone, totally focused on getting up that mountain. One rider counted pieces of garbage. She would change her bike position with every 10 pieces of garbage. Another cyclist met this very fast bike rider, who told him how the hill unfolded. He then just disappeared into the mist...turned out he was a rider with Lance Armstrong in the past. Peter looked very strong on the climb. Curt said that he will definitely reach the top.

Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans. The last 6 kms to the peak was covered in snow and black ice. The mountain was closed to cars and bikes. What disappointment, especially since the middle third of the hill was the hardest and Peter sailed through. So, Peter did not buy the Mt. Ventoux jersey. Next year, we will be back to finish the job and to buy the jersey!

Luke getting the wind shelter from our van

Peter starting the middle 10%grade hill

Peter starting the top 6% grade

Le Geant de Provence

Ahhhh, the day has arrived...the day to climb Ventoux. The skies are cloudy, the temperature is 3 at the base of the mountain and -7C at the top. We're going! Peter is cycling and I am driving in the crew van.

Peter listening to pep talk from Olympian Kurt Harnett

Peter warming up next to Kurt